June 13
Day 33
Contiki Day 24
Luxor,
EGYPT
Sailing in a Hot Air balloon While Watching an African Sunrise
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BUSTED!
The Journey...
Select a Day:
~*OPTIONAL*~ Hot Air Balloon Ride
Up and away on this early morning balloon ride over the West Bank of the ancient city of Thebes. Drift silently over the temples and tombs of the Great Kings and the mud brick houses of farmers and stonemasons. -Contiki
$150.00 USD
~*OPTIONAL*~ Valley of the Kings
Visit the world-famous burial place of the Kings and Queens of Egypt with a local guide. There are more than 60 tombs in this 400m (1,300 ft) long valley - including the most famous tomb of Tutankhamun which was discovered complete in 1922 and yielded many of the treasures now on display in the Egyptian Museum. -Contiki
$36.00 USD
It felt like as soon as my head hit the pillow the alarm went off. 4:30am was an early wake-up call for what would be one of our longest days on tour. I hit the snooze button a couple times - a lot more than I thought and almost ended up missing out on this morning’s activities: hot air ballooning. I finally dragged myself out of bed and went to the hotel lobby just as Ryan was about to send somebody to wake me up. It’s good to know that Ryan wouldn’t have left without me - he knew how much I was looking forward to today.
Across the street from the hotel was the Nile River and a boat waiting for us. On the boat we were given bagged breakfasts, coffee and tea. It was still pitch dark out at this time. As we drove down the river, Luxor looked beautiful in the early morning hours. The air was still very hot and it was only going to get worse. It was nice to be traveling by boat considering most of our time is spent on a coach.
This morning I wasn’t feeling too well again. I couldn’t tell if it was the same as my illness yesterday, or if it was from being abruptly woken up after only four hours of sleep. Either way, I could tell that something was wrong. It wasn’t severe this morning, so I was hoping that it wouldn’t get any worse. I didn’t want anything to ruin my day of temple hopping.
After about a twenty-minute boat ride we docked down river and boarded some vans that would take us the rest of the way. This was my first time experiencing Egyptian driving (besides being on the coach) and it was completely insane. They drove us down narrow, winding gravel roads outside the city at speeds around 70 kph. Remember, though, it isn’t wrong it’s different. To be honest, this sort of driving seemed more wrong than different. As we got closer to the hot air balloon site we could see them being inflated in the horizon. As soon as I saw them I began to get really excited. I had never been in a hot air balloon before - yet another new experience.
When we arrived at the balloons, the ground crew was finishing getting them set up. There were two balloons there. Most of us fit in the colorful one, but a few people had to go with another small tour group in the other balloon. The baskets weren’t as small as I pictured them to be. Each one could fit 20 of us plus the pilot. They were sectioned off into four different compartments and a middle space for the driver. Before leaving for Europe, Liz and I had talked about this optional on the Internet and she was really nervous about the whole situation. I promised her that if she decided to do it, I’d be there for moral support. When we got inside the basket I made sure I was in the same section as her, but she didn’t seem nervous anymore.
As we set sail, the pilot ignited the flame and I noticed how hot it was. It was several feet away from us, but it gave off some intense heat. It got so hot that after the ride, Mila, who was near the middle of the basket, got some of her hair singed and ended up with a small bald patch in the middle of her head.
As we floated across Luxor, we watched the sun rise over the city. An African sunrise looks so much different than the ones back home. It was fantastic. We got to see a lot of the city, too. Some parts were very poor. The clusters of houses were nothing more than cement shacks and most didn’t have proper roofs - some didn’t even have a roof. Sometimes we would float over a roofless house and could see people asleep in their beds. It was amazing to see, but really sad at the same time. We also floated past some of Luxor’s famous temples. Our pilot would point them out as we passed and told us a bit about them. We’d visit these places later in the day, so I’m not going to talk about them now.
We followed a path between a large range of hills and the Nile River. It was interesting to see all the greenery around the river on one side of us, and then the brown lifeless hills on the other. I spent the first little while snapping pictures of everything, but eventually I put my camera away and just took everything in. In the direction of the Nile, there wasn’t anything obstructing our view, so we could see as far off into the distance as our eyes would allow. Egypt was so vast. The brown sand and Sahara desert seemed to go on forever. Everybody enjoyed this optional immensely. It was expensive, but absolutely worth every penny.
Our ride was over an hour long and when it came time to land, our pilot gave us some landing instructions. When we were coming in for the descent, we were to stand with our backs facing our direction of travel, lean back, and hold on to the basket. He also said that there are three different types of landings: American, British, and Egyptian. An American landing goes bump-bump-drag-bump-drag-stop, a British goes bump-drag-bump-stop, and an Egyptian goes bump-drag-stop. Luckily, we had an Egyptian landing and hit the ground safe and sound.
Our ground crew, who had been following us the whole time, arrived and took the balloon down, folded it, and bagged it in under five minutes. It was really amazing how they got such a huge piece of material folded and put away so quickly. We seemed to have a few other people following us too. Five kids (one riding a donkey) came up to us and, of course, started begging for BAKSHEESH!!!?. God I HATE that word! Baksheesh... baksheesh... BAKSHEESH..... fuck! Nobody gave them any money and they just stood outside our group begging the whole time we were there. After just seeing the houses that they probably lived in I felt really bad for them, so I figured I’d throw them a few pounds just before we left so they couldn’t bug me for more.
After the ground crew got the balloon put away, they had some sort of celebration ceremony. Out of the blue they all started singing and clapping their hands. It caught us off guard and we couldn’t quite figure out what was going on. They tried to get us involved, but we were so confused we just stood there watching them. It was cool to see the cultural experience, but was very unexpected. CLICK HERE to see the ceremony video.
L to R: Bottom Row: Hannah, Cassie, Mouse, Cara, Liz, Christina, Janay, Tanya, Ryan(TM)
Back Row: Teresa M, Janine, Mila, Dave(me), Luke, the pilot, Blair, Suzanne, Paula, John, Kansas Chris, Erica
Our vans arrived at the landing site to take us to the coach. As we got into the vans, the baksheesh kids came running after us in a final desperate attempt to get some money. As we began to drive away, they started chasing after us and banging on the vans with sticks. I took three £1.00 notes out of my wallet and threw them out the window. Something I wasn’t expecting happened - they started BEATING EACH OTHER UP for the money. They reminded me of those murderous pigeons in Paris. I couldn’t believe it. As we drove away I looked out the back window to see them whacking each other with sticks. I felt like I did more harm than good - another reason why I don’t like giving money to beggars.
We got dropped off at the coach meeting point, but it hadn’t arrived yet. It gave us a few minutes to eat our bagged lunches consisting of ham, cheese, bread, butter, and a hard boiled egg. It was starting to get a lot hotter out and I started to feel a little sick, so I didn’t eat much. There were some Egyptian ladies working in a field a few meters away, so Tiana and I gave them the rest of our food. They seemed very grateful for the food and I was happy when they didn’t start beating each other up for it.
The coach arrived and it was a relief to finally be in some air conditioning. We had a 45-minute drive to our next destination, the Valley of the Kings, but during that drive I started to feel extremely ill. I started to get dizzy, weak, and nauseated - far worse than yesterday. At one point I thought I was going to puke. I knew what this was: dehydration. I was trying to drink two or three 2L bottles of water per day, but apparently it wasn’t enough. I tried to drink some water during the drive, but trying to swallow it made me feel about 10x worse. I knew that if I tried to swallow the water it would just come back up again. Carefully, I tried to drink some water anyway, but after a few failed attempts I figured I’d wait until the nausea passed. It was still something that would come and go a few times per hour, so I planned on drinking as much water as I could during the times I was feeling ok.
We arrived at the outskirts of the Valley of the Kings and had to wait for a shuttle to take us to the tombs. Today was the hottest day yet - over 45°. Being in the extreme heat made me feel even worse. While waiting for the shuttle to arrive, I thought I was going to pass out. I sat on the ground with my head between my knees and tried to keep myself together. I didn’t know if I was going to puke, pass out, die... I just felt so horrible. I finally got fed up and downed an entire bottle of water. If it was going to make me puke, then at least I was outside and wouldn’t ruin anything. At first it made me feel a gazillion times worse, but after a few minutes I started to feel a lot better. From this point on, I knew that I would have to double my daily water intake. I’m glad I realized it before things became more severe. Besides feeling crappy from the extreme heat, I would continue to feel fine as long as I kept hydrated. It’s amazing what the human body goes though when it isn’t getting enough water. Very painful.
We caught the shuttle down the road into the Valley of the Kings. The valley is the resting place of ancient Egypt’s Pharaohs and kings. It’s home to over 60 tombs, including the newly discovered tomb, KV63. Our entry ticket allowed us to go inside three tombs of our choosing. After a brief tutorial from Muhammad, I went inside the tombs of King Ramsesses I, III and IX. There was an extra fee to go inside Tutankhamun’s tomb, but Muhammad said that the tomb of Ramsesses III was much more spectacular.
It was an unbelievable experience walking through tombs that had been lost for 3,000 years. Most were made up of many different rooms and the artwork on the walls were well preserved - especially in Ramsesses III’s tomb. The walls looked as though they had been painted yesterday. Most of the actual mummies and coffins had been removed a put in museums, but otherwise almost everything was completely in tact. As with all amazing places, pictures inside weren’t allowed - but by now I’ve learned to disregard that rule. In Ramsesses III, Ryan and I were sneaking pictures, but we both ended up getting busted. For some reason they let Ryan go, but when the security guy caught me, he took my camera and pulled out a bunch of confiscated memory cards from in his pocket as a scare tactic. I was a little pissed off when Ryan just left me there to deal with the situation on my own. He was the tour manager and should have stayed to help get me out of the situation. Luckily, Liz stayed with me to help me get my camera back, but it wasn’t looking good for my pictures. He just stood there for a while holding my camera and saying “No photo” over and over again. I begged and pleaded with him to give me my camera AND memory card back, but he just continued to stand there holding it. The worst case scenario was that he would delete all my photos. During our first day in Aswan right before the camel ride, I had finally filled up my 2GB card and currently had a 1GB card in my camera. It didn’t have many pictures on it - just from the last two days, but I’m protective of my pictures and would have done almost anything to get them back. He kept us there for a good ten minutes just holding my camera. He wasn’t dealing with the situation, he was just toying with me. I started to get pissed off. As I stood there so many things entered my mind. I thought about grabbing my camera out of his hands and running with it, or giving him every cent in my wallet to get it back (he probably would have gone for that). Eventually I told him that he was going to watch me delete my photos of the tomb and then give me my camera back. I was done bullshitting around with him. I must have looked pretty angry, because he suddenly became nervous and agreed. The only reason they don’t want photos taken at famous monuments is to increase sales in the gift shops. Who’s going to buy postcards of the insides of the tombs if they already have a photo of it? I hate that rule and even after this experience I’m still going to take photos where I shouldn’t.
After the camera ordeal, we left the tomb and I shook off the whole experience. Everyone had visited their three tombs and it was time to leave. The Valley of the Kings was an experience of a lifetime. Just a few days ago I was watching a documentary on the Discovery Channel about the excavation of the newly discovered tomb, KV63. I wish I had seen it before going to Egypt, because it gave me a completely different perspective on what was going on while I was there. I recognized one of the archaeologists on the show, Dr. Otto Schaden, since he’s in a few of my pictures standing outside the new tomb.
Our nest stop was Deir el-Bahri Temple. If I remember correctly, the temple was built to worship the god Amun. The temple was badly damaged over time, but has been restored in the side of the mountain using it’s original stones. We arrived here around noon and the heat was almost intolerable. I was still feeling a little sick, but I didn’t care. I wanted to climb the stairs of the temple.
The walk up the temple was pretty difficult in the heat, but once at the top there were some shady spots to rest. The view from atop the temple was also a sight to see. Other than climbing to the top, there wasn’t much else to see at the temple so we didn’t spend too much time here.. Before getting back to our air conditioned coach, I bartered for some water at some near-by shops. Yes, we even had to barter for water.
Our next visit was to Karnak Temple which, like Abu Simbel and the Pyramids, is one of the most amazing things I’ve ever seen. It was huge inside! The entrance was lined with rows upon rows of massive carved pillars, and further inside were two ancient obelisks. We had some free time to wander around the temple’s different areas. Most of the areas had been reduced to rubble over the years, but you could still get a good idea of what it once looked like. At the back of the temple was a statue of a scarab beetle. Muhammad told us to make a wish and walk around the statue five times. It was either a tradition or Muhammad just wanted to laugh at a bunch of tourists walking in circles. Either way, my wish ended up coming true (I made the same wish at Trevi Fountain in Rome).
Our last stop for the day was Luxor Temple. There used to be two obelisks at the entrance to the temple, but one has been given to France. There was also a row of Sphinxes that lined the path to the entrance. The rows of Sphinxes once lined the road all the way to Karnak Temple, but many have been destroyed or removed. They were miniature versions of the Sphinx at Giza.
We didn’t spend long at Luxor temple because we had to catch an armed convoy to escort us to Hurghada. We had just enough time to have a quick look around, take a few pictures, and be on our way.
Because of terrorist attacks on tourists over the last ten years, the Egyptian government has set up armed convoys to escort highway coaches between cities. The convoys consisted of two police vans carrying officers armed with machine guns and bulletproof vests and helmets. The departed several times per day, so we had to make sure we caught them on time.
Before meeting the convoy, we had just enough time to stop for something to eat at McDonald’s. I would never eat at McDonald’s under normal circumstances, but it actually ended up being a bit of a cultural experience. Many of the menu items were the same as back home, but they had a few things that I had never seen before. One was a Big Mac made with chicken patties and the other was a gyros-like wrap called a McArabia. If I had to eat at McDonald’s in Egypt, then I was going to sample local cuisine. I couldn’t believe they had something called McArabia! It fascinated me so much that I had to order it - along with one of the chicken Big Macs. The food didn't have much grease. If McDonald’s food was like this back home I’d probably eat it once in a while. It was the first time I’ve enjoyed McDonald’s food since I was like six years old. Too bad they didn't serve Poutine. I was craving some at the time.
After our late lunch we met with the convoy and began our four hour drive to Hurghada. We had a great day in Luxor, but because of the heat it was equally as nice just to chill on the air conditioned coach for a while. During our pit-stop, we pulled over at a highway convenience store to buy some snacks and drinks. A few minutes after we stopped, a little girl with her baby goat came up to the coach and just stood next to it looking at us. She didn’t smile and didn’t say a word. All the girls started gushing over how cute she was and everyone couldn’t help but go over and empty out our wallets to her. On top of giving her $10.00 USD, I also bought her a can of Pringles. When I gave them to her she suddenly got a huge smile, but quickly put her pouty face back on since that got her more money. All those BAKSHEESH!!!? kids could learn a lesson from this little girl. She didn’t say a word and probably walked away with close to $100.00 from us. She was just too cute not to give money to. When we got back on the coach to continue our drive, I started to get a little worried that some of the locals at the store might try to rob her, but as we drove off we saw her run up to her dad who was walking a camel down the street. He put her on the camel and they walked off into the sunset. I’m sure her dad knows his daughter is a tourist goldmine.
In the early evening we arrived at the resort city of Hurghada and checked into the hotel. Once again, it was a very nice place. The city was located on the Red Sea coast and the first thing everybody wanted to do was hit the beach. We all got changed into our swimming gear and walked the two blocks from the hotel to the beach. When we got there we realized that there was a £20 entry fee and none of us brought our wallets. Instead we decided to go back and chill in the hotel’s pool for a while before dinner.
Sightseeing today was very exhausting because of the heat, but once we got in the pool it cooled us off and everybody seemed to feel rejuvenated. We all had a burst of energy and played in the pool like little kids. It was great. I hadn’t felt this good in quite a few days. By this time I wasn’t feeling sick anymore and was drinking a lot more water.
For dinner we had a really good buffet and in the evening we had our pre-planned terrace party. Ryan had mentioned the party a few days ago, but Amy misheard him and thought he said terrorist party. We all thought it was pretty funny, so nobody told her any different. She thought it was going to be a theme night and we were all going to dress up like terrorists. She had a big plan about what she was going to wear, but at dinner somebody told her that it was a terrace party and it ruined the whole joke. She was actually pretty upset that it wasn’t a terrorist party, but we had a good laugh anyway.
For the rest of the night we all sat around the pool and drank. This was the first time in quite a while that we were able to relax and drink like we did in Europe. Tomorrow was going to be a relaxing day cruising on the Red Sea, so there wasn’t any need to go to bed or get up early. I drank Luxor Beer all night which was really good. For most of the night, we sat around talking about what a great time we’ve had in Egypt. None of us wanted the experience to end, but at the same time we missed the Mykonos people and were excited to continue the tour. We still had one more day in Egypt and once again it would be something we’d remember for the rest of our lives. After our great day and very relaxing night, I went to bed around midnight.
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Blair, Suzanne, Liz and Paula on the boat |
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Luxor and the Nile in the early morning |
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Filling the balloon |
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Our hot air balloon |
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An African sunrise over Luxor |
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People sleeping in their beds |
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Coming in for a landing |
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Our hot air ballooning group photo |
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Me at King Tut's tomb |
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Me standing in the Valley of the Kings |
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Me in front of Deir el-Bahri Temple |
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Deir el-Bahri Temple |
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The entrance of Karnak Temple |
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Me in front of one of the Karnak obelisks |
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The entrance to Luxor Temple |
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Me with the row of Sphinxes in front of Luxor Temple |
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The little girl and her goat |
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The road to Hurghada |
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Luke and I |
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We're running in a circle to make a whirrel-pool |
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